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Excerpt from The Jade Coast by Rob Butler

Chapter 6.

Eelgrass Meadows and Saltmarsh

The Nuts and Bolts of Eelgrass Meadows and Saltmarshes

            Eelgrass meadows straddle the intertidal and subtidal regions whereas saltmarshes lie between the terrestrial and intertidal.  Sea temperature,  salinity and clarity of water limits where eelgrass meadows will grow. Distinct zones of different vegetation outline the level of sea submergence in the saltmarsh but the amount of moisture, salinity and nutrients in the sediments also dictate their distribution.

Sea and sun

            Sea temperature and sunlight trigger photosynthesis in eelgrass meadows that sends a chain of events rippling through the entire ecosystem. Sunlight warms the beaches at low tide in spring and chills them in winter that modifies the surrounding sea temperatures. The amount of sunlight reaching the eelgrass plants determine how far down the beach they can grow.  There is an important conservation message here: turbid waters caused by events such as oil spills, sewage, and plankton blooms can reduce the growth of eelgrass. And, as we will see, without eelgrass the entire ecosystem would collapse.

Sediments and nutrients

            The roots of eelgrass do much more than just anchor the plant in soft sediments. The shower of leaf litter from the floating canopy create oxygen-depleted sediments about the roots where sulfur bacteria thrive2. Their presence maintains the acidity of the sediments so that nitrogen mineralization is made available to microbes more quickly than if the bacteria were absent. Without the microbes, the eelgrass meadow ecosystem becomes impoverished5.

            Saltmarshes develop where high tides inundate low-lying land. Little is known about marsh soils in our region. The lower elevations are often saturated with moisture. The type of soil is important because the finer soils have the greatest supply of nutrients. The lower reaches of saltmarshes that are submerged frequently by high tides are often oxygen-poor just below the surface. The by-products of decomposition in these soils are sometimes toxic to some organisms making an already harsh environment more rigorous for its inhabitants.

Salinity

            Eelgrass is tolerant of a wide range of salinities but it does best where the water is brackish. The open ocean has a salinity of about 35 parts salt per thousand parts water and eelgrass grows best in water with a salinity between 10 and 30 parts per thousand. Any animal living in the intertidal zone has to cope with changes in salinity which some can do by moving in and out of the intertidal portion of the beach. But for plants, salinity is an invisible barrier to many plants. Few terrestrial plants can tolerate saline conditions that sap plants of precious moisture. So the competition for space goes to the salt-loving halophytes that are adapted to a life in the salt zone. Many saltmarsh plants store water in fleshy stems or roots, and grow tiny leaves covered with fine, glaucous hairs to reduce evaporation loss.

 

Eelgrass and Saltmarsh Food Webs

The Players

The producers inhabiting small estuaries are phytoplankton, marine algae and eelgrass. They produce food energy through photosynthesis. The grazers include such animals as the chink shell that grazes algae on eelgrass fronds, and the brant goose that eats eelgrass fronds. Among the filter feeders are many small invertebrates that cling to eelgrass fronds and clams that live in the mud. The predators include invertebrates such as the Dungeness crab, birds such as the great blue heron, and fish. In other words, very dissimilar animals eat very similar food.

The producers that inhabit large saltmarshes are glasswort and grasses such as spike grass and wild rye. The grazers are ducks such as the American wigeon and northern pintail.

 

The Producers in the Eelgrass Meadow and Saltmarsh

            On sunny summer days, a green sheen of eelgrass shimmers in a mirage that stretches for kilometers along the shore of the great beach in Boundary Bay near Vancouver. At low tide, the eelgrass looks like a meadow uncovered by the sea. Beach walkers will be familiar with the long sinuous green leaves of eelgrass sprouting from sandy beaches near the low tide. There are 48 species of seagrass in the world of which five species live on our coast. Three of these are surfgrasses (Phyllospadix) found in rocky habitats exposed to Pacific surf. Two species of eelgrass that occur in our region are the widespread Zostera marina which grows along the entire Pacific Coast, and a recent invader, the diminutive Zostera japonica presently established on beaches to the south and including the Strait of Georgia. Particularly, large beds of eelgrass are found in Humboldt Bay, Netarts Bay, Willapa Bay, Grays Harbor, Padilla Bay, Boundary Bay, Tofino Inlet, Skidegate Inlet and Izembek Lagoon, Alaska. About 9% of Puget Sound below mean lower low water is covered by eelgrass3.

            Eelgrasses are vascular plants that share features common to many terrestrial plants. They produce flowers, albeit tiny and inconspicuous ones, and they have root-like underground rhizomes. The long narrow leaves slow the movement of water and the tangles of rhizomes stabilize sediments that enrich the area around the plant. The long, swaying leaves also conceal tremendous numbers of animals that use the bed as a refuge and nursery. However, as we will see, eelgrass provides much more to the ecosystem than just the breakdown products of its leaves. 

            One of the reasons that eelgrass habitats in tropical and temperate environments are so rich in species is that they provide many places for other plants and animals to grow. The leaves of eelgrass grow at an astonishing rate of about 5 mm each day and can reach up to 10 mm per day under ideal conditions. These leaves support a microcosm of epiphytic plants and animals, as well as provide food for grazing animals and, supply detritus that feed invertebrates in the eelgrass beds and on nearby beaches.

            Eelgrass in Alaska survives ice conditions but eelgrass in Washington and California cannot. Generally, eelgrass grows best when the surrounding sea is about 22oC. Thus, increasing sea temperatures in late winter triggers eelgrass reproduction as early as February4. Flowers can appear as early as March and as late as July. The growth of eelgrass leaves begins in the warmth of July and extends into November. A host of other plants and animals establish communities on or between the leaves of eelgrass.

            Imagine how different we would feel if our lives were dependent on scum. At first glance, it is difficult to believe that this unappealing mass can be important - but it is the cornerstone to the life in eelgrass beds. Without the leaves of eelgrass, myriads of tiny plants, bacteria and diatoms that cling tenaciously to the leaves would be buried in mud or carried away by currents and tides. Within days, meter long leaves of eelgrass turn a two-dimensional mudflat into a three dimensional garden of plants and animals suspended in a watery environment rich with plankton. The weight of this growth on the leaves of eelgrass can exceed the weight of the leaves by themselves over two-fold6!

            The fundamental steps in the growth of plants and animals that cling to the leaves are the growth of the diatom and bacteria coating on eelgrass leaves, the entrapment of detritus, and the growth of tiny algae. Without the ability of these tiny organisms to rapidly colonize eelgrass leaves much of the life of the eelgrass ecosystem would not survive. Entire life cycles of these epiphytic plants and animals are adapted to the 3 to 8 week life span of its life support system - the leaves of eelgrass. At first glance, the eelgrass appears to be getting the worst of the deal but the relationship between epiphytes and eelgrass has evolved to be of mutual benefit. Eelgrass provides the epiphytes with a free ride suspended in waters rich in nutrients and close to the surface of the water where the sun shines brightest. And in return, the epiphytes exchange carbon, nitrogen and phosphorous with the eelgrass.

Suspended gardens

            One of the first plants encountered in eelgrass meadows (other than eelgrass, of course) is a red alga Smithora naiadum that clings to the edges of eelgrass leaves and is conspicuous because of its reddish purple hue. It is widespread throughout our region. Also abundant is a carnivorous amphipod that resembles an exuberant miniature preying mantis. Jellyfish and tiny sea anemones cling to eelgrass in summer. One of the most remarkable creatures of eelgrass meadows is the hooded nudibranch. This creature is a predatory sea slug that reaches 10 cm in length and devours small amphipods and other crustaceans with the aid of a hood. It resembles a flaccid mass of jelly in the hand, but in the water the hooded nudibranch quickly fills out its hood and delicate-looking sacs. It uses the hood as a flotation device whereby it drifts to the surface to catch small crustaceans with its tentacles. This animal wouldn’t stand a chance on exposed rocky shores. Eugene Kozloff refers to the hooded nudibranch in his superb book Seashore Life of the Northern Pacific Coast as one of the “top ten” of curiosities brought to marine biologists, or described over the telephone. Nearly as intriguing is Phyllaplysia taylori, a yellow-green sea slug bearing longitudinal black streaks. A third sea slug in eelgrass meadows is the tiny Aeolia papillosa that Kozloff aptly described as resembling a shaggy little mouse. Its diet is largely if not exclusively, anemones. Often crawling about the leaves of eelgrass is an isopod that takes on the colour of its background. A conspicuous group of clingers on are the sponges and hydroids. A tiny sessile jellyfish measuring up to about two centimeters and the graceful kelp crab reside in eelgrass meadows. The jellyfish eats plankton and small crustaceans, and the crab scavenges dead animals often in association with broken-back and coon-striped shrimp. 

Grazers

            The early 1990s, I began a study of the birds of Boundary Bay that opened my eyes to the importance of eelgrass beds to their survival. Autumn on the Jade Coast is a time when waterfowl are on the move. From Alaska, central British Columbia and Alberta, ducks and geese stream along the coast by the millions. I drove my truck on to a dike that skirts along the top of the beach of Boundary Bay. A leaden sea reflected a silvery sky and there were ducks as far as I could see. Wigeon, pintails, teal and mallards were tipping and sieving the shallows for food. Scaup and scoters were in deeper water. Along the beach scampered thousands of Dunlin and plovers. I pondered how I would ever estimate the number of birds that day. The ducks were milling about but few were flying. The shorebirds were more mobile but generally stayed within view. By counting groups of 50 or 100, I could gradually tally the number on the beach. Over the next few hours, I alternated short drives with counts of flocks an eventually tallied nearly 100,000 ducks and 30,000 shorebirds.  

            The most conspicuous grazers of eelgrass meadows and saltmarshes are ducks and geese. Eelgrass meadows are one of the great storehouses of ducks in winter along the Pacific. About 100 000 ducks congregate each winter on Boundary Bay, 50 000 gather in each of Grays Harbor, Padilla and Samish Bays, 200 000 amass in Willapa Bay, and 124 000 collect in Humboldt Bay. Many small estuaries also harbour ducks, geese, swans and many other waterbirds. The most numerous species are the American wigeon, northern pintail and mallard. These herbivorous ducks arrive in eelgrass meadows in large numbers beginning in late August and continue to arrive as late as November from breeding grounds in western Canada and Alaska. Wigeons are strictly herbivorous and set upon the leaves of eelgrass, especially the introduced species Zostera japonica whereas the pintail and mallard prefer a more varied diet of seeds and plant stems found in saltmarshes and nearby farms.

            A conspicuous species that is dependent on eelgrass is the brant. This sea-going goose eats eelgrass while on the Pacific Coast.  Brant return each year to the same eelgrass meadow where they mostly graze the leaves and stems to fuel long migrations to the arctic and back.  However they might also arrive in March to take advantage of herring eggs deposited on eelgrass and other beaches. Following breeding, about 150 000 brant spend the winter on the Pacific coast in Baja California. They gather in one of the world's largest eelgrass meadow in Izembek Lagoon at the base of the Aleutian Island chain. From there, the brant launches trans-Pacific flights of over 5 000 kilometers to Mexico. The flight is demanding - by the time they settle in Mexico the Brant will have lost about one-third of their weight.

            Far less conspicuous than the grazing waterfowl in eelgrass beds are grazing invertebrates. The chink shell is a widespread, and easily found snail in Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia eelgrass meadows. It measures about 5 mm in height. Even more conspicuous than the snail are its tiny yellow egg masses described aptly by Eugene Kozloff as "little yellow life preservers". Also abundant is one of my favourite denizens of the eelgrass meadows, the bubble snail, whose bulging body can hardly be contained in its dainty shell. It lays its yellow eggs in bands resembling narrows strands of decaying gauze along the leaves of eelgrass. Where the bubble snail is abundant, the tidal wrack becomes littered with its paper-thin shells.  Grazers also find food on the mudflats. A film of greenish algae covering mudflats in spring and summer feeds large numbers of herbivorous horn snails. It was introduced with the Japanese oyster earlier this century.

            Grazers in the saltmarsh include mice and voles from neighbouring grasslands and forest. The most ubiquitous species is the deer mouse that roams the saltmarsh largely at night. It nests under driftwood and below ground. About all you see of the Townsend's vole is a fleeting glimpse as it torpedoes along its runways in the grass and down its burrow. Voles live much of their lives underground but on wet wintry days, a rising watertable can force them above ground.

Detritus-Feeders

            Winter storms tear apart the leaves of eelgrass and batter the dried saltmarsh plants. The dead leaves and stems scatter about the beach and tumble into the saltmarsh to become food for animals that live on plant detritus. Many worms inhabiting eelgrass meadows and neighbouring beaches go unnoticed but play an important role in converting the detritus into animal protein. The top few centimeters of some mudflats are crawling with marine worms, crustaceans, and amphipods. If you look closely to the mud on a warm day, it will appear to be moving as these marine invertebrates jostle in the soupy mud. Their vulnerability to predators resorts them to a life in the roots and sand away from prying eyes. Several species of lugworms that live in and around eelgrass meadows are also abundant in estuaries. An abundant polychaete worm in eelgrass meadows is Notomastus tenuis that lives by eating sediments. One of the most important group of detritus-feeders that live on the substrate beneath the eelgrass canopy and on neighbouring mudflats are the crustaceans, notably the copepods, amphipods, isopods and shrimps. These little animals are high on the list of entrees of many fish. Copepods are seldom longer than on millimeter but they are very numerous and haute cuisine for gunnels, herring, salmon and seaperch. They become abundant in spring and early summer when the water warms. Also important, are the amphipods that devour algae and detritus. The best-known amphipods are the beachhoppers that leap and scurry when wave washed algae is turned aside. More will be said about them in the chapter on boulders and sand beaches. The genus Corophium contains several important species that consume detritus from eelgrass, epiphytes, marine algae and animal remains. Food is removed from water by the waving motions of abdominal appendages and legs fringed with tiny hairs. Even more abundant than Corophium are tiny mysid shrimp that race through the water resembling miniature 'motorboats'. 

 

 “Deep down here by the dark water lived Old Gollum,

a slimy creature. I don’t know where he came from,

nor who or what he was. He was Gollum - as dark as darkness,

except for two big round pale eyes in his thin face.”

-J. R. R. Tolkien, The Hobbit

 

            The ghost shrimp lives a Gollum-like existence in muddy burrows often in association with eelgrass meadows. It seldom is seen at the surface but their telltale volcano-shaped burrow entrances belie their presence. A small fish, the arrow goby, has taken up residency in the burrows of ghost shrimps, along with other shrimps, worms and small crabs.

            The smallest of the North American sandpipers is abundant in Pacific saltmarshes. The least sandpiper weighs in at about 20 grams. Least sandpipers often accompany migrating western sandpipers, which they closely resemble. Both species stop at saltmarshes and mudflats on their migrations in April and May on their way north to the breeding grounds, and again on their southbound journey from July through October. The least sandpiper eats copepods, small clams, polychaete worms and other invertebrates along the margins of salt marshes and roosts in the saltmarsh during high tide. In southern British Columbia individual birds linger for an average of about five days before departing on their southward migration. The edges of saltmarshes sometimes are riddled with holes made by the purple shorecrab. Little is known about the habits of this crab in saltmarshes but it likely preys upon invertebrates and scavenges dead animals brought in by the tide.

Burrowing Filter Feeders

            So far, we have been looking mostly at creatures on the mud or in eelgrass beds and saltmarshes. It’s now time to get dirty! In the oozing, smelly mud below the eelgrass canopy are several species of clams, worms and arthropods that feed on plankton. The most conspicuous clam is the basket cockle that lies on or near the surface of the beach where its short siphons can extend into the seawater. The bent-nosed clam is often very abundant here too but lies submerged in the ooze. Both species are also found on neighbouring sandflats and mudflats. Whoever named the inconspicuous macoma must have had an odd sense of humor. The bright pink shells attract the eye of even the least observant. This dainty clam seldom grows larger than one centimeter across. It lives in muddy situations where it is an important component of the diet of several shorebirds including the western sandpiper and dunlin that flock to our mudflats in great numbers. The geoduck, which is pronounced ‘gooey-duck’, and Pacific gaper lie as much as a meter below the surface. They spurt water from their retractable siphons if disturbed during low tides often to great delight of unsuspecting beach walkers. All of these clams slurp in plankton and expel wastes through siphons.

 

Surface Dwellers

“Two men look out through the same bars.

One sees the mud, and one the stars.”

-Frederick Langbridge

           

The abundance of clams, shrimps, worms and other invertebrates that dwell in the mud attract predatory crabs, ducks, gulls, shorebirds, and even some whales.  The Dungeness crab is a conspicuous invertebrate scavenger and predator of the eelgrass meadow. In California, female crabs molt in late summer and are mated before the shell hardens. Eggs are brooded until December or January when hatching occurs. The larvae are then carried offshore to mix with other plankton, where they go through several development changes to become swimming ‘megalopa’ in April and May. Between one and two years later, the megalopae moult into juvenile crabs in coastal areas and finally become adults in two and six years. Dungeness crabs seldom stray inshore of the subtidal eelgrass meadows. Female Dungeness crabs gather in nursery areas along the subtidal edge of eelgrass meadows in the southern Fraser River estuary where their densities can reach up to three to four crabs per square meter, a testament to the abundance of food in these eelgrass beds.

            Along with the predatory crabs, the rising tide also brings the sunflower star to hunt clams within the eelgrass meadows. In Puget Sound the chief prey is the butter clam. Watching sea stars is like watching paint dry with one exception. The sunflower star is the sprinter of the starfishes, visibly scurrying at breakneck speed (for sea stars) of about 1.6 meters per minute along the bottom in search of prey. Although very slow for us, it is curiously rambunctious for a sea star. Hidden behind the gentle exterior of the sunflower star is a ferocious hunter feared by bivalves and sea cucumbers alike. Pity the unfortunate clams that falls prey to Pycnopodia. The many-rayed star settles over its victim and systematically lifts sand and gravel out of the way. Small clams and urchins are swallowed whole whereas larger victims are forced open by applying unrelenting hydrostatic pressure force from its many tentacled feet to overcome the adductor muscle of the clam. Once the valves have parted, Pycnopodia everts its stomach between the shells and digests the clam alive.

            The glaucous-winged gull, California gull and mew gull are abundant predators in eelgrass beds in British Columbia and Alaska whereas the western gull predominates south through Oregon and California. The Glaucous-winged Gull eats ghost shrimps, Dungeness crabs, basket cockles, and fish among other items. Shrimp are snatched from their burrows, crabs are caught by turning over eelgrass and sea lettuce, and cockles are broken from their rugged shells by dropping them to the beach from the air.

            Things in Southeast Alaska are big. Big mountains, big glaciers, big distances, and big stories. The Stikine River roars through the mountains of British Columbia and southeast Alaska before emerging across a big delta. The sand and mud delta lie largely untouched by humans within the Tongass National Forest. From the air, the Stikine draws in thousands of Central American shorebirds on their migrations to Alaskan breeding grounds. In 1991, we knew very little about how important the Stikine was to shorebirds in the chain of migration mudflats linking the tropics to the arctic tundra.

The third of May 1991 dawned clear and bright when I boarded the plane in Petersburg. Onboard was Chris Iverson from the US Forest Service. We were about to make a low altitude flight across the Stikine delta in search of flocks and then I would be dropped at a site where I would rendezvous with Robert Clair from the Forest Service and my colleague Terry Sullivan.

The plane roared out of Petersburg and swung south past the icy blue floating glaciers calving from LeConte Glacier. This territory was unchanged since John Muir hiked the canyons of the Stikine in 18xx. Wolves and bears lived along the shores, and the meadows of sedge spread out on the flats for many kilometers. The air had spring freshness.

There is something exciting about spending time in the wilderness dependent on your survival skills and exploring an area where few scientists have trodden. I could see Robert and Terry in the boat off to the starboard side and I could hardly wait for the plane to put down so I could get ashore. We slid on the water surface on a soft landing, unloaded the gear into the boat and headed for a small cabin on Little Dry Island.

That evening, we rigged up our equipment to detect radio transmitters that I had attached to sandpipers on the Fraser River delta in British Columbia a few days earlier. The receiver hissed through headphones as I began to scroll through the radio frequencies. An ever-so-faint chirp of a radio seemed to peep in the headphones, but I wasn’t certain. Quickly I climbed on to a high point and heard the chirping once more but this time it was loud and clear. On the beach before me was a sandpiper carrying a tiny radio transmitter that I had glued to its feathers nearly 1000 kilometers away. This confirmed our suspicions that the birds on the Fraser also stopped on the Stikine delta. We later detected several other radios on birds from the Fraser over the next few days.

The cerulean blue sky along the seashore that evening was streaked with wisps of smoky grey clouds. To the south, a grey rain was moving toward us. About 100,000 shorebirds were anxious to depart. I could hear it in their rallying calls. The high tide had pushed a large flock close to the marsh edge and their twittering calls periodically erupted in din of chirps as flocks rose from the beach. Some flocks began to form into long lines in the air and began to climb higher in the sky. I followed with my binoculars their silhouetted shapes against the reddening sky until the dots became specks and the specks merged with the sky. Their next stop would be the Copper River delta. In my imagination, I flew with them.

We spent a few days catching, weighing and banding sandpipers at Little Dry Island and then decided to divide the team into two groups. Robert and I would move to the north to Mallard Slough while the others remained at Little Dry Island.

It was late afternoon before the tide was high enough to float the boat. Slowly we poled our way into deeper water before starting the motor and speeding off to the northwest. It was important to get there while the tide was high in Mallard Slough so that we could reach the camp. If we missed the high water, we would be stuck overnight on the mudflat.

The jade green waters sped by as we made our way along the delta and soon Robert slipped the boat into a riverine channel. We crept up the delta to a small cabin overlooking a mudflat alive with thousands of shorebirds. Robert and I decided that we should take advantage of the opportunity to band some of the birds.  Now the expression ‘biting off more than what one can chew’ springs to mind on occasions such as the one we about to experience.  We thought we would be lucky to catch a few birds and so we hastily erected three sets of aluminum poles with fine mist nets strung out in a row. If we caught 20 birds, it would have been a good day of banding. On cure, the flock wheeled and collided headlong into our nets. The nets were festooned with over a hundred flailing sandpipers. Robert and I had removed many shorebirds from nets but this was going to be a daunting task. The fine threads of mist nets clings to the bird’s feathers without harming them. But it would require a minute or two to remove each bird.

It is at times like this that one hopes for Divine inspiration but seldom are prayers answered. So we began the task of removing the birds one by one and placing them into large boxes. Our backs were straining, our eyes felt as though they were permanently crossed, and our throats were parched by the time all the birds were free from the nets. Now the tedious job of weighing, banding, measuring and recording was to begin. We quenched our thirst and went to work. By setting up a system, we were able to band and release all the birds within a few hours of capture. Not ideal, but the job was completed with no casualties. With the last bird on its way, we fell back on our bedrolls to rest. We were hungry but dinner would have to wait.  

Beaches on the Jade Coast support shorebirds at all times of year. One of the first shorebirds to be encountered on mudflats in winter is the dunlin, a species with a circumpolar distribution. Our subspecies, Calidris alpina pacifica breeds in western Alaska. It undergoes a feather molt in late summer and returns to our mudflats in September through to November often in huge flocks to forage on worms and clams during low tide. It feeds both during the day and night. Worms are pulled from the mud and quickly swallowed. The abundance of small invertebrate decomposers and small filter feeders found on mudflats are the chief prey of over 50 species of shorebirds along the Pacific Coast. The most numerous shorebird in spring and summer is the western sandpiper. Large numbers spend the winter on mudflats in California but only a few western sandpipers remain in northern regions. The western sandpiper breeds in western Alaska and spends the winter along the southeast Atlantic Coast, around the Gulf of Mexico and along the Pacific Coast from California to Peru. In April, hundreds of thousands migrate north through our mudflats and estuaries. They return on their journey to the south in July through September. Western sandpipers eat many small worms and the amphipod Corophium on mudflats and in estuaries.

            Few species of bird on the Jade Coast is as handsome as the black-bellied plover. Its plaintive cry "keeer" is a fixture of windy, open mudflats they occupy. In winter, the plover's colouration is a drab brown, black and white that it exchanges for a handsome black under parts in spring and summer - a sight to behold. Black-bellied plovers hunt their prey by scanning the surface of the mud until they detect the slight movement of invertebrates at the mud surface and scamper to catch it. An important prey species of plovers are marine worms but they also eat small bivalves. Sometimes gulls will take up the chase when a plover flies off with a large morsel. Studies in Britain showed that black-bellied plovers defended stretches of beach against other plovers9. These territories included drainage channels on mudflats where they spend most of the time foraging. On windy days, channels provided territorial plovers with protection from windy blasts that deterred other plovers from staying on the beach. The winds on our mudflats seldom gust as high as those in some British estuaries but plovers depart our mudflats on blustery days to eat earthworms and insects or rest in nearby fields8. Where the mud is particularly soft, the short-billed dowitcher and long-billed dowitcher are sometimes numerous. Dowitchers have long bills with sensitive touch receptors in their tips that they use to probe for worms, crustaceans, fish eggs, small snails and clams. The seasonal ebb and flow of tides and day length strongly affect the Great Blue Heron’s breeding cycle along the Jade Coast. The lengthening days of spring bring warm sunshine onto the eelgrass meadows stirring the growth of leaves and their epiphytes. This sudden growth spurt provides food and shelter for millions of gunnels, sticklebacks and sculpins waiting in deep water offshore to breed. Their arrival attracts large numbers of herons to eelgrass meadows. Once each female catches enough fish during the low tides to begin to make eggs, she chooses a mate at the colony and the nesting season begins. Herons require about 100 days to lay and incubate eggs, and raise their chicks8. Adults and young depart the nesting colonies between June and August to spend the summer and autumn catching fish in eelgrass meadows. By autumn, the days are noticeably shorter and a chill settles into the eelgrass meadows. Fish that were abundant a few months earlier dwindle in number in the eelgrass meadows and herons begin to search elsewhere for food.

Swimming Predators

            Large filter feeding invertebrates such as clams, mussels and cockles are the mainstay of large numbers of sea ducks in winter. The mild, ice-free climate and high daytime tides allows them to feast on invertebrates in eelgrass meadows and on nearby mudflats throughout the winter. Between 10 and 20% of the world’s seaducks spend the winter along the Jade Coast. Among the most numerous and widespread diving ducks are the bufflehead, greater scaup, common goldeneye, surf scoter, white-winged scoter, and long-tailed duck. Scaup sometimes rest on shore and feed in shallow water but the other species seldom come ashore.  Bufflehead and goldeneye are usually found in shallow water and scoters and the long-tailed duck feed in the deepest water, sometimes tens of meters in depth. However, there is much overlap in the water depths used by all species. All of these ducks are absent from the Pacific coast between March and September when they breed in western Canada and Alaska.

            Winter days along the Jade Coast have certain sameness to them. Abrupt shifts in weather are unusual and the birds come and go between feeding and loafing areas along the shore. The tides flood the beach for most of the day providing diving ducks with access to intertidal invertebrates on the seafloor. In February, an event begins to stir that will bring a sudden jolt of energy into coastal ecosystems. Schools of Pacific herring begin to enter eelgrass meadows from deep water to spawn and hordes of loons, gulls, seaducks and sea lions arrive to gorge on them in one of the most spectacular shows in the Jade Coast. Beginning in February in the south and continuing until the third week of July in the north, herring swim into the shallows to lay eggs on vegetation and the beach. Eelgrass meadows are favoured places although spawning is not exclusive to this habitat. Spawning has been recorded for more than 250 km of shoreline in British Columbia. In Alaska, the eggs form a thick soup along some shores. The amount of spawn varies between years and in good years over 100,000 loons, gulls, and ducks gather for the feast.  One estimate put the amount of spawn eaten by 75,000 scoters at 103 tonnes12. Each female herring lays from 9 000 to 38 000 eggs depending on their age and size.  The sticky eggs adhere to eelgrass, kelp, rockweed and rocks in a gelatinous mat. Males release their sperm in the water creating white clouds in the spawning areas. The eggs hatch in about 10 days depending on the sea temperature but many provide food for marine invertebrates. The contribution of this energy to the marine ecosystem is immense. On the west coast of Vancouver Island, an estimated 16 million turban snails and 9 million leather stars were estimated to eat 1021 tonnes of herring eggs and a further 235 tonnes of herring eggs were consumed by gray whales13. For several weeks each spring, herring beaches are a cacophony of screaming gulls, barking sea lions, and rumbling fishing boats all pursuing herring. Larval herring begin to feed on invertebrate eggs, copepods and diatoms, and fall prey to jellyfish and small fish. They grow rapidly so that about one month after hatching, young herring are 2.5 to 4 cm long. At this age, copepods remain their principal food but their diet widens to include barnacle and mollusc larvae, bryozoans, rotifers and small fish. They form into schools for the summer and in the fall move offshore into deeper waters. Herring fatten through the summer, fast in winter and rely on stored oils to fuel the development of eggs and sperm. Large numbers gather to feed at the mouth of the Fraser River estuary in May and June. Herring are one of the mainstays of many fish, birds and mammals on the Pacific Coast. Its eggs are consumed during the spawn from late winter to early spring in eelgrass meadows and other intertidal areas, and the first year-class of fish is consumed year-round while at sea. The significance of herring in the lives of many coastal species has not been fully realized. The sudden appearance of this bountiful food supply could very well prepare many birds and marine mammals for breeding and migration. Tonnes of eggs also provide food for snails, crabs and scavenging invertebrates.

            Soon after the herring depart, other fish arrive to breed in eelgrass meadows. As part of my doctoral research, I hauled a beach seine net through eelgrass meadows to estimate their seasonal abundance. The nets capture a large number of fish that would go undetected otherwise. We would pull the net ashore and quickly empty the catch into buckets of water. The nets writhed with rigid sticklebacks, wiry pipefish, wiggling gunnels, angry sculpins and sleek shiner perch. For many fish, the abundant food and protection from predators provided by eelgrass meadows make them nurseries of choice for their growing young10. The abundance of small fish in eelgrass meadows following the arrival of spawning herring might be more than coincidental. Herring spawn might be an important additional source of nutrients for invertebrates that are the prey of small fish in the eelgrass ecosystem. The shiner sea perch leave subtidal waters for the shallows of eelgrass meadows in spring to give birth. Female perch carry up to 35 young in their distended bellies. Young perch are born largely in June and July. Once they have given birth, females mate with the males sporting black courtship colours for the occasion. The sperm stored in her ovary, waits about six months before penetrating the ovary wall and fertilizing the eggs in late autumn. Meanwhile the recently born young grow quickly in the warm waters, hidden from most predators in the tangle of eelgrass leaves where they remain until their departure for deep water in autumn. Copepods are important in the perch diet early in life, and mussels, marine worms, shrimps, and barnacles are eaten later in life. Birds, mammals, and fish eat the shiner sea perch. Herons, eagles, cormorants, kingfishers, mergansers, mink, otters, rockfish, dogfish and salmon eat sea perch.

            Lurking among the eelgrass beds and sporting red bellies and spines that lock into position, is the three-spined stickleback. Much has been written about stickleback behaviour in freshwater, but less is known about the ones that inhabit eelgrass meadows.  Sticklebacks are small fish less than 4 centimeters from snout to tail. They dine on copepods, amphipods, euphausids, barnacle and clam larvae, crustaceans, insects and young fish. Sticklebacks are well armed with strong scales along their flanks and sharp spines on their back but this doesn’t stop the great blue herons from eating large numbers of sticklebacks. Nor does the stickleback armory stop kingfishers, mergansers and buffleheads from making them a meal.

            One of the oddest fishes in eelgrass meadows and a personal favourite is the bay pipefish. Measuring less than half a centimeter in depth and up to 33 centimeters in length, the pipefish looks like a fish that has been stretched out of shape. Not only is it odd looking, but it also has an unorthodox breeding behavior. Male pipefish have pouches specially for tending the growing young. Posterior to the anus of the male is a ventral slit which forms the brood pouch. Sometime in about June, males court females by showing off with body shakes and head nodding. An interested female impressed by this show, entwines herself around his rigid S-shaped body and transfers the fertilized eggs into his pouch. He cares for the young until they become independent at about 20 millimeters in length. If this sounds strangely familiar, it is because pipefish are closely related to the sea horses of warmer seas in which the males also tend for the young in special pouches. The bay pipefish has no teeth so it catches its copepod and amphipod prey by sucking water and prey into the mouth by inflating the cheeks.

            Some species of fish use eelgrass meadows as places to grow after hatching in other habitats. One very abundant group of fish in eelgrass meadows that fall into this category is the gunnels. They are sometimes mistaken to be eels because of the similarity of body shapes. The largest species is the penpoint gunnel. Some monsters reach nearly half a meter in length. The common name refers to a pen nib-like anal spine. Two other abundant species of gunnel are the crescent gunnel and the saddleback gunnel. Both of these species seldom reach 30 cm in length. Gunnels are not easily seen because of their cryptic markings. However, they can be caught in large numbers in beach seine nets hauled through eelgrass meadows in spring and summer. Gunnels lay eggs in the subtidal in winter and swim into eelgrass meadows in spring to feed on small crustaceans molluscs and other marine invertebrates. Herons and cormorants eat large numbers of gunnels. To get a better understanding of the magnitude of fish in an eelgrass meadow we can look at estimates of how many are eaten by herons. I estimated that 200 herons eating gunnels and other small fish would consume less than one-tenth of a percent of the 12,600,000 fish in a 31-hectare eelgrass meadow on Sidney Island in June 1987 and 198814. Now try to imagine how many copepods and amphipods are eaten by 12 million gunnels.

            Eelgrass beds are important nurseries for the English sole that begins its life as an egg in inshore waters where it hatches to become floating larvae. Young soles are pelagic for 6 to 10 weeks and then move inshore to feed on copepods, barnacle larvae and other small invertebrates. They can be spotted as they scurry from underfoot in a cloudy trail of mud. Adult English Soles spend most of their life in subtidal and pelagic waters. English soles are mobile souls that travel along much of the Pacific Coast. The major diet is clams, marine worms, small crustaceans and starfish.

            The staghorn sculpin is one of the most noticeable fish in eelgrass meadows. Young sculpins follow the edge of the tide in search of marine worms, clams and other invertebrates and older, larger individuals lurk in the eelgrass where they eat small crabs, shrimps, fish and invertebrates. Sculpins are an important part of the diet of the mergansers, western grebe and kingfisher, and river otters. Sculpins and flounders enter eelgrass meadows by following the tides searching the mudflats for invertebrates in the mud. When the tide is low, invertebrates move down their burrows or bury in the mud, and hordes of shorebirds probe the beaches for them. The common loon frequents the edges of eelgrass meadows where it dives for fish, amphipods, crabs, and shrimp. Often in the vicinity of eelgrass beds are flocks of western grebes, especially in Puget Sound and southern Strait of Georgia. Staghorn sculpin, gunnels and shiner sea perch are eaten by these fish-eaters.

            To complete the survey of swimming predators is the largest species to frequent eelgrass meadows and mudflats - the gray whale. Gray whales eat amphipods, isopods, marine worms, clams and herring eggs. Their habit of sucking up food and expelling mud and sand through the baleen plates leaves tell-tale pits in the muddy bottom that become pools when the tide ebbs. The gray whale undergoes one of the longest migrations of the mammals. The 9 000 km migration along the Pacific coast begins in the breeding grounds in Baja California and ends in the Bering, Chukchi and western Beaufort seas. Over 20 000 whales pass along the coast each spring reaching peak abundance in March in California, April in British Columbia, and May in Alaska. Some individuals remain along the coasts of California to British Columbia and return with southbound migrants in autumn and others remain year-round. Following a summer of fattening, they return to the lagoons of Mexico to give birth and breed. About a century ago, grey whales were hunted heavily by the whaling industry. Now, with protection, their numbers are increasing and we are witnessing a slow reoccupation of their former haunts.  For many slow reproducing species, recovery to former abundance requires many decades. Among the species bouncing back from years of persecution are the trumpeter swan, bald eagle, humpback whale and grey whale.

Aerial Predators

“Swift as the wind they fly, speeding along the breakers

with directness of a runner down a course, and I read fear in their speed.”

- Henry Beston, The Outermost House, 1928.

            There is indeed something frantic in the way sandpipers feed along the mudflats. They probe and peck at invertebrates in the mud with knowledge that soon the tide will return to cover their foraging sites. Large flocks of shorebirds busying themselves at finding food leave them exposed to the sleek and agile peregrine falcon and merlin. Both falcons catch their prey by rapid flight and quick turns that once seen will remain etched in your memory.

Winter on the Jade Coast is often cool and damp, and the wind often blows cold from the eastern facing valleys along flat beaches frequented by shorebirds.  I have walked these beaches on countless occasions dressed in a parka to keep out the wind to seek out falcons. Often it is the frantic frightful flights of shorebirds that alert me to the presence of a falcon. The shorebirds spring from the mudflat in a desperate bid to gain a height advantage to an incoming falcon.  Peregrines are much more successful in their chases if they can surprise the shorebirds while they have their heads down foraging along a beach than once the flock takes to the air. But this day was extraordinary.

It was a mid summer afternoon when I pooled the boat ashore on a small sandy beach in southeast Alaska. I had come to search the beaches for shorebirds that migrated north along this coastline in big numbers but were thought to be scarce in summer. Either they took another route, or they flew out of sight at high elevation.

Sand and mud beaches are uncommon habitats in southeast Alaska and so I thought that if any shorebirds were around, they should gather in a relatively few locations.

The sun was bright and the clear water lapped the shore in a steady rhythm. The beach was about one kilometer long and I did not expect to see many shorebirds. I was correct. The marine chart showed another bay across a narrow forested neck of land that I reached in a few minutes. The shore was a mixture of sand and gravel and through my binoculars, I could make out a small flock of sandpipers pecking the shore for amphipods. This was the first flock I had seen in several days and so I moved closer to see what they were up to.  Suddenly the flock wheeled and rose quickly from the beach as a peregrine streaked into their midst. I had not seen the falcon coming. The shorebirds bunched into a tight flock in the air and hastily departed the beach. I tracked them through my binoculars as they climbed high into the southeast sky and were lost from sight.

The falcon’s pursuit sometimes begins high in the air from which a spectacular dive on partly closed wings is launched. The aim of this approach is to snatch an unsuspecting shorebird from the ground or as it takes flight. A second approach is to use stealth and speed during low level pursuits to fly down the prey. The latter approach was used on the flock in Alaska – unsuccessfully I might add.

 

            As a rule, prey outnumbers predators. The greatest amount of the sun’s energy held in eelgrass leaves becomes food for trillions of invertebrates which are eaten by thousands of shorebirds, and become prey to a handful of falcons. In the saltmarsh, a few rough-legged hawks, common barn owls and northern harrier hunt thousands of mice and voles that nibble at tonnes of vegetation. The harrier is a characteristic saltmarsh species of the saltmarsh - more so than the other rough-legged hawk and barn owl.  Harriers are numerous in winter and a few nest in tall grasslands at the edge of saltmarshes along the Jade Coast.

            The languid marine waters of the eelgrass meadow allow many delicate animals and plants to live out lives in relative serenity. But where the seawater mixes with freshwater emanating from land, animals and plants able to cope with sudden shifts of salinity replace those preferring marine conditions in eelgrass meadows. The waters of estuaries are sometimes rich with nutrients streaming from the land but special adaptations are required to survive in this changing ecosystem, and this is the subject of the next chapter.

 

 

 
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